Deceptive Hair Grades: Should I buy 9A, 10A, or 12A hair?

Anthony

December 4, 2024

People still believe that hair grades are qualities. we often see questions like: “What is the best grade of hair?” “Do you sell 12A grade hair?” and “What is 9A grade hair?” Well, here’s the truth: hair grades are just labels vendors use to describe the hair they sell. The quality? Well, that could be anything, and there’s no universal “best” grade of hair.

While hair grades are slowly fading into the background, we still see people making this mistake. That’s why we’re breaking it all down in this article—so everyone can finally see the hair grade myth for what it is. It’s not about the label, it’s about the quality beneath it.

Honey blonde 12A bundles with dark brown roots, showcasing premium hair grade quality.

1. Brief History of Hair Grades

When I entered the hair industry in 2015, 4A and 5A hair extensions were the gold standard. Back then, those were the highest qualities available. But as the years went on, new hair grades began flooding the market—6A hair, 7A hair bundles, and 8A hair. These weren’t new types of hair; they were just new marketing labels.

Fast forward to today, and vendors are selling 12A hair as the pinnacle of quality. But if they introduce 15A hair next year, does that mean it’s sourced from magical rainbow unicorns in a parallel universe? Hardly. The truth is, the quality doesn’t change much—just the names slapped on the product do.

Then came the rise of Brazilian, Malaysian, and Peruvian hair extensions. Suddenly, everyone wanted to know the difference between Brazilian and Peruvian hair. A quick Google search offers elaborate explanations, but here’s the catch: it’s all marketing. The Brazilian or Peruvian hair extensions being sold today? They’re often the same as the 5A hair you bought years ago. The only thing that’s really evolved is the branding.

Search results for 'Brazilian' and 'Peruvian' hair, commonly used marketing labels
Apophenia: Seeing patterns where there are none

There’s a scientific term for this phenomenon: apophenia. It’s the tendency to see meaningful connections between unrelated things—like the idea that “Brazilian hair” or “12A hair” has some universal standard. Spoiler alert: it doesn’t. People are searching for patterns in a system where none exist.

When I started Bossique, 9A and 10A hair grades were all the rage. Naturally, I adopted the trend too. But as time went on, frustration grew over these arbitrary labels. Facebook exploded with comments like “Raw hair isn’t graded” or “Grades don’t exist.” They weren’t wrong. So, for marketing reasons, we ditched the grades and started differentiating our qualities by the color line we use instead.

Here’s the question no one seems to answer: If 10A-grade hair is the best quality on the market, what exactly is 13A-grade hair? And is 12A hair supposed to be superior to 10A? These grades are little more than a creative way for sellers to claim their product is better than the next. In reality, it’s all just clever branding.

2. A Quick Guide to Hair Quality

Chinese vendors source their hair from Chinese manufacturers—but do all of these manufacturers use hair grades? Not quite. Based on our experience, only about one-third do. The rest rely on traditional terms like 泡发 (Paofa), 顺发 (Shunfa), and 辩发 (Bianfa). Here’s what they mean:

  • Paofa: Paofa is the lowest quality human hair. This hair has had its cuticles completely burned off in an acid bath, making it low-quality.
  • Shunfa: It’s middle-tier quality, often marketed as virgin hair. It’s remy-machine-aligned, chemically processed floor hair.
  • Bianfa: This is ponytail hair, cut directly from a donor. It’s fully cuticle-aligned and the highest quality available.

Want the full scoop on hair quality? Check out our detailed breakdown in this article.

3. There’s No Universal Grading System

Here’s a 2019 price list from our black line (9A) supplier. They sell hair as 泡发, 顺发, and 辩发. They come as A, B, and C, each indicating different fullness. We sold their 顺发B.

Comparison table of hair grades and prices"
Old price list of our 9A hair (black line) supplier

Hair grades weren’t always a thing. When we started buying 顺发B in late 2018, we decided to call it 9A because it was trendy at the time. That’s how the industry works—hair trade companies and manufacturers name their hair extensions however they see fit. There’s no universal rule or standard we’re required to follow.

So, if we sell 9A and 10A hair and want to introduce a slightly upgraded quality, what should we call it? 11A hair? 10A+ hair? Or jump straight to 12A hair? The answer is: any of the above! With no universal grading system, the names are just that—names.

4. Are Hair Grades Simply For Marketing?

In short, yes—hair grades are a marketing tool. Marketing is all about being seen and convincing people to buy your products, and how you name your extensions plays a big role in shaping a buyer’s perception. If buyers are searching for 10A hair, offering it is just good business. Want to stay transparent? Simply add a note on your site explaining that grades don’t have a universal meaning.

When the market started saying, “Raw hair isn’t graded,” we adapted. At one point, we told customers, “Our 10A+ hair is raw in its purest form,” but hat honesty didn’t exactly win hearts—it was an uphill battle. Eventually, we went with the flow and renamed our raw hair extensions to “Orange Line.” It was part of a broader marketing strategy to avoid comparisons with other suppliers’ grades—because let’s be real, when one vendor’s 10A is Shunfa and ours is Bianfa, it’s like comparing apples to oranges.

Now, some people blame vendors for using hair grades as a marketing ploy. But the reality? It’s driven by demand. If half the market is asking for Mink Brazilian hair, vendors will start branding themselves as Mink Brazilian hair suppliers—even though “Mink Brazilian” isn’t a real thing! Yet, factories for it seem to pop up everywhere.

The bigger problem is miseducation. Many salespeople in the hair trading business only need passable English to get hired. They’re not required to understand hair quality—sometimes, bosses prefer it that way to prevent employees from branching out on their own. Why settle for a 3% commission when you could run your own business and take 10-20%? This cycle of misinformation ends up confusing both buyers and salespeople, creating a messy, self-perpetuating loop.

Search results for 'Mink Brazilian' hair, a marketing label
There’s no such thing as mink Brazilian hair, and still, you can find hair factories for it

At the end of the day, hair grades are just names—convenient for vendors but misleading for buyers. While marketing is necessary, doing it with honesty and transparency is what truly sets you apart.

5.What Is the Best Grade of Hair?

As we’ve said before, hair grades are meaningless. There’s no universal standard for these numbers or names—they’re purely marketing tools. Expecting consistency or quality based on them is like expecting “Mink Brazilian Hair” to actually come from mink.

When buying Brazilian, Indian, Malaysian, or Peruvian hair extensions from China, odds are it’s Shunfa: remy machine-aligned, chemically processed floor hair. This means it likely won’t bleach beyond a #27 honey blonde. Some vendors may offer Cambodian or Burmese hair, but they’re not superior to Chinese hair. In fact, the best quality you’ll find from China is Chinese hair—specifically, Bossique’s Orange Line. If you’re eyeing Indian hair from China, don’t hold your breath for quality.

True hair quality isn’t about names but how the hair is sourced and processed. High-quality raw hair can be bleached to #613 while maintaining healthy, intact cuticles and elasticity. Inferior raw hair may reach #613 but will lose health and bounce. Remy machine-aligned hair? It caps at #27. Forget the marketing labels—test the hair’s properties, because those are the only grades that matter.


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Have questions? Contact us directly on WhatsApp or iMessage at +86 135 3369 3283, or email me at cristina@bossique.com. Many of our articles originate from discussions on our Facebook page. We’d love to hear from you!


Hair Cheat Sheet

What Is Grade 7A Human Hair?

Grade 7A is just a fancy marketing term. It started in China and spread worldwide, but here’s the catch—there’s no universal grading system. Labels like 7A are more about selling the dream than defining quality, letting vendors claim their hair is “better” without any real standards to back it up.

What’s the Difference Between 10A and 12A Bundles?

The difference is mostly in the target market. “10A” caters to Western buyers, while “12A” is popular in the African market. But don’t be fooled—both labels can describe any quality of hair extensions. Most hair sold to Africa is either chemically stripped floor hair or remy machine-aligned hair, with raw hair being less common. And when raw hair is offered, the first question is usually, “How many bundles does that price cover?”

Is There Grade 11A Hair?

Grade 11A is just another marketing term to make hair sound superior to lower grades. It doesn’t actually exist as a defined standard. Hair grades like 11A mean nothing—they’re simply a way for sellers to claim their product is better than the rest.

How Good Is Grade 8A Hair?

It depends. “Grade 8A” is just a marketing label, so vendors can assign it to any quality they want. This means it could range from poor to excellent quality. Educated buyers focus on the actual specifications—like sourcing, cuticle alignment, and processing—rather than relying on grades.