Understanding Hair Quality for Better Extensions

When it comes to hair quality, terms like “raw hair,” “virgin hair,” and “remy hair” dominate the conversation. But if your understanding stops there, you’re only scratching the surface.

The truth is, the people who truly understand hair quality—factory owners—rarely speak fluent English and seldom interact directly with clients. Meanwhile, hair vendor sales staff often operate with limited knowledge of quality themselves. Why? Because if they fully understood the ins and outs of sourcing and production, it would be far too easy for them to leave, start their own business, and take clients along for the ride. As a result, they primarily focus on delivering what clients request, without challenging or clarifying those expectations.

And then there’s you—fluent English speakers far removed from the realities of hair sourcing and production. Yet, you’re the ones defining what these marketing buzzwords mean, creating labels based on an oversimplified understanding of hair extensions.

If you’re ready to go beyond the surface and truly understand what makes the best hair extensions, keep reading.

Can Marketing Tricks Fool You About Hair Quality?

Imagine this: two vendors source their products from the exact same factory. They sell the SAME hair—identical in fullness, packaging, and quality.

• Vendor 1 markets their hair as “virgin hair.”
• Vendor 2 describes it as “chemically processed hair” and prices it $3 cheaper per bundle.

Which one do most buyers choose? The “virgin hair”—and they willingly pay more for the label.

Here’s the irony: most “virgin hair” on the market is chemically processed, but the term “chemically processed” carries a negative connotation. For some buyers, this difference in labeling is simply a lack of knowledge. For others, it’s about peace of mind—they’ll pay extra for a nicer-sounding label, even if it means overlooking the actual quality of the hair.

In the end, marketing wins, and buyers lose sight of what really matters: the hair itself.

Pointing Fingers

But who’s really to blame for the confusion? It’s easy to point fingers at vendors for being dishonest, but the problem runs far deeper. The hair market is in chaos, driven by misinformation and marketing hype. Salespeople often lack the tools to educate themselves—they don’t speak fluent English, don’t research hair quality, and only know what their managers teach them. And buyers? Many are swept up in the illusion, trusting flashy labels over actual quality.

The result? A vicious cycle of confusion, where the truth about hair quality gets lost in translation—literally. If you want to break free from the marketing noise, it’s time to dive deeper and separate fact from fiction.

Hair Is Either Bianfa, Shunfa, or Paofa

In Chinese, we don’t have words for raw, virgin, and remy hair, and we use words like “Bianfa, Shunfa, or Paofa” to describe the hair quality. While you don’t have to remember these words, they directly relate to how the differences in quality originate, and that’s why I will use them as a basis to explain the differences.

Bianfa – Ponytail Hair

Bianfa roughly means “Ponytail Hair” and is cut directly from a girl’s head. This way, the cuticles stay 100% aligned, and the hair doesn’t need to get processed. Less processing means better hair quality. These are the best quality hair extensions that your money could buy.

Shunfa – Smoothened Floor Hair

Shunfa roughly means “Smoothened Hair,” but it also goes by the name Tiaoshun, which roughly means “picked to be smooth.” As it’s floor hair and doesn’t have aligned cuticles, it has to be processed to prevent tangles. For this type of hair quality, a worker can use a non-remy to remy machine to align the cuticles.

The exact amount it aligns is unknown, but let’s estimate it to be around 95%. This type of hair would still tangle and mainly still receives an acid bath to burn off some of the cuticles—just enough to prevent tangling but not so much that the hair gets very damaged. But in any case, it will be damaged, and that’s why it is lower in quality than the BIANFA Ponytail hair.

Paofa – Acid Bath Hair

Paofa roughly means “Soaked Hair,” referring to having the cuticles stripped in acid. It’s also processed floor hair but entirely skips the non-remy to remy machine, as it’s time-consuming. It’s a very destructive process and the lowest hair quality for human hair. However, it’s a lot cheaper to produce.

These names might be confusing, so you could call them High-End, Middle-End, and Low-End.

Subcategories of Hair and Their Hidden Meaning

(Un)Processed Raw Hair

Unprocessed hair extensions are the best quality hair extensions on the market. However, while many vendors claim their hair is 100% unprocessed, the reality is that only a small fraction truly delivers on that promise.

And just because hair is cut straight from a donor doesn’t mean it’s perfect. Some girls’ hair may be naturally thinner, heat-damaged, dyed, or affected by prolonged UV exposure. Additionally, hair collectors sometimes cheat to increase the value of their hair, further compromising its quality. So when collecting the hair, it’s vital to pay special attention to the hair quality of the hair material itself.

So, what happens to the “not-so-perfect” hair? This impure material often undergoes a minor chemical bath and is dyed to make it look better. The differences between mildly processed and unprocessed hair might be small, but once you know what to look for, they’re pretty easy to spot. For example, the dye process is relatively short, so even the scraping test isn’t likely to pick up on it. But the acetone test can reveal the truth.

• Bleaching speed: The chemicals used in the hair break down some of the melanin in the hair. This means that the hair will bleach faster than real, unprocessed hair. Or in other words, real, unprocessed hair might take 5-6 times longer to bleach than what you’re used to.
• Bleaching health: Unprocessed hair will bleach lighter than #613 and remain healthy. Mildly processed hair wouldn’t reach these colors healthily.
• Smell: Processed hair has a chemical odor, while unprocessed hair smells like natural protein or has a milky scent. You’ll notice the difference even more when you iron it.
• Frizz: With unprocessed hair, short hairs stay smooth and don’t frizz. Mildly processed raw hair? Those short hairs frizz up under heat.
• Texture: Minorly processed hair feels smoother, while unprocessed hair has a coarser, more natural feel.
• Glow: Dyed hair tends to glow less red when held before a bright light source. A natural color hair strand is transparent in the core and will let more light through.

If you’re hunting for the highest quality, unprocessed, cuticle-aligned hair, these tips will help you spot the real deal.

Raw Hair or Mixed Hair Quality

There are plenty of vendors out there claiming to sell raw hair at super affordable prices. But here’s the truth: if you’re not paying raw hair prices, you’re not getting raw hair. Many vendors swap out raw hair for a mix of raw and remy-machine-aligned hair (Bianfa & Shunfa Mix). This blend comes at a lower cost, has more competitive pricing, and can even be bleached close to #613. But here’s the catch—some vendors abuse this practice because true high-end raw hair is expensive.

Take vendor XYZ, for example. They claim to sell high-end hair, but most competitors sell 30” bundles for around $120. XYZ sells theirs for $100, even though the actual value of the hair is closer to $80. They get away with it because buyers tend to focus solely on price and don’t understand the difference. The hair might still be decent quality, but the blend isn’t on par with true high-end raw hair.

If a deal looks too good to be true, it probably is. Make sure you know what you’re really paying for.

Virgin Hair or Processed Floor Hair

Many vendors claim to sell virgin hair, but here’s the truth: virgin hair is supposed to be the same quality as raw hair since steam-styling has almost no effect on the hair. So when vendors offer “affordable virgin hair,” what they’re really selling is floor hair—hair collected from the floor, aligned using a non-remy-to-remy machine, and then chemically processed.

It might sound scary, but this type of hair isn’t necessarily bad. If you’re not paying premium prices, you’re buying chemically processed floor hair. It can still be decent quality, and your clients might love it if you source good batches, but it’s important to manage expectations—it’s not high-end hair.

Since it’s processed, the hair loses some cuticles and thickness. Bleaching makes the hair thinner and weaker, sometimes to the point where elasticity is affected, causing the hair to break easily. Processing is a delicate balance: underprocessed hair tangles, while overprocessed hair becomes fragile and weak.

Vendors will call it virgin and use many marketing labels, but if it only bleaches to a #27, it falls into this category.

Why doesn’t it bleach lighter than #27? The hair is collected from different donors with varying shades of black, creating a “dirty” tone when mixed. To hide this, the hair is dyed an even black, but the coloring process makes it resistant to further bleaching.

Trash Hair

Low-end hair is designed for those on a tight budget, looking for a temporary style, or simply not concerned about longevity. Of course, it could also be for anyone who feels their trashcan looks a little too empty this week.

This type of hair will usually bleach to a #27, but don’t expect much beyond that. After bleaching, it often looks lifeless and dull—just like its name suggests.

Unbleachable Hair

The only type of human hair that doesn’t bleach is salon hair. This is a collective term for hair that was previously colored at a salon, and is thus saturated with dye.

Bleaching this type of hair won’t get you beyond a #4, no matter what you do. So, if you’re trying to bleach hair and it’s not working, you’re either dealing with salon hair or you’ve made an error in the process (and let’s be honest, mistakes happen to the best of us!).

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Other Important Factors to Consider When Purchasing Hair

While we’ve discussed the quality of the hair material and how manufacturing impacts it, there are other critical factors to keep in mind. These factors might not directly affect the hair’s quality but play a significant role in how the hair is perceived and valued.

Single Drawn vs. Fuller Bundles

One of the most common complaints is, “This single-drawn hair has short hairs.” But that’s the whole point of single drawn—it means the bundle includes shorter hairs mixed in. So, it’s a bit of a facepalm moment when this gets called out as a flaw.

Now, if you buy a 24-inch single-drawn bundle from a Chinese supplier, what percentage of strands do you think are actually 24 inches? 20%? 30%? The supplier might claim it’s over 20%, but the reality is closer to 10-12%. This varies between suppliers, but ideally, you’ll find one that provides a thick middle section. Otherwise, the fullness drops off too quickly, making the hair look sparse.

If you want true 100% fullness for the best quality hair extensions, be prepared to break the bank. Even a bundle with 30% fullness is considered high-end and targets a premium market. For example, a 30-inch, 100-gram machine weft with 30% fullness can cost $150-$250, depending on the quality of the raw hair material. And don’t expect to find these ready-to-go—these are typically custom-made orders from China, as the demand is low, and the prices are steep.

This makes stocking such hair particularly expensive and risky. A pro tip? Buy bundles 2-4 inches longer than what you want to sell and trim those extra inches. The hair will look much fuller, and it’s a trick that many vendors already use for their regular hair.

Still, most of you might be thinking, “$200 for a 30-inch bundle? No way!” And fair enough, it’s a big investment. But there’s a market out there willing to pay these prices. Think of it like diamonds—they’re expensive, but there’s always demand because they’re seen as the best.

Take authentic Russian hair, for instance. You’ll pay at least $900 for 100 grams, even at wholesale prices. And while Russian hair isn’t necessarily “the best,” it’s finer than Asian hair, making it a better match for people with fine hair. Not everyone sticks to selling within the box—there’s always a premium market looking for exclusivity.

So whether you choose single-drawn or fuller hair, remember: there’s a buyer for every quality level, as long as you know how to target the right market.

Bundle Weight

People often expect hair bundles to weigh exactly 100 grams, but the reality is quite different. Most hair extensions from China weigh between 80 and 95 grams. When checking the weight, make sure to measure it without the rubber bands, as they can add a surprising amount to the total.

For example, the picture below is from a company I used to work with. They used about 8 grams worth of rubber bands to make the bundle weight appear closer to 100 grams. They were fully aware of this tactic but always had a ready excuse: “The white rubber bands might leave residue in the hair, so we use the black bands underneath for extra security.”

It’s a clever cheat—one supplier might offer bundles 5% cheaper but deliver 10% less hair. Always weigh carefully and know what you’re paying for!

Accurate Hair Length

Another common trick for cutting corners is misrepresenting the length of hair bundles. For example, the bundle below measures roughly 25.7 inches—close to 26 inches, but not quite. We sell it as 24 inches, but we could easily market it as 26 inches.

Considering the price difference between 24 and 26 inches is around $10 for our highest-quality hair, it’s tempting to stretch the truth. And many vendors won’t hesitate to do exactly that.

However, if you receive a bundle that’s slightly longer than advertised, you could trim an inch or two to create a much fuller, more appealing look. It’s a small adjustment that can make a big difference!

(Unpleasant) Smells

Even the highest-quality hair extensions can be ruined if they smell like a wet dog or corn chips. Unfortunately, some hair is notorious for having a corn chip smell, often caused by the hair being permed. Other odors can come from hair being dyed, chemically processed, or treated with hair products.

For instance, during steam-styling, certain products are used to protect the hair from heat. Later, additional products might be applied to make the hair feel softer and smoother. While some smells can be washed out, others may linger much longer.

It’s hard to describe exactly how good-quality hair should smell, but one thing is certain—you don’t want to be wearing hair that turns your stomach. If it smells unpleasant, it’s worth reconsidering.

Balancing Price and Quality

Finding the right supplier isn’t about chasing the cheapest hair or splurging on the most expensive. Paying more doesn’t always mean better quality, but paying too little almost guarantees bad hair. Yet, many clients skim price lists, dismiss a supplier as “too expensive,” opt for cheaper options, and then wonder why the quality is consistently low.

A smarter approach? Start with a reputable supplier on the higher end. Use their hair as a baseline to compare with other vendors. You might discover a cheaper option with similar quality—or you might realize that supplier already offers the best price for the quality you want, meaning it’s time to adjust your target audience instead.

When evaluating price, don’t forget the hidden costs. Manufacturers often take shortcuts to offer competitive pricing or boost profit margins. Price lists might not reflect PayPal fees, handling fees, or unusually high shipping costs, which can easily tack on an extra 10% to your total. By then, you might have been better off ordering from a different vendor altogether.

Hair That Can’t Hold a Curl

One common frustration is hair that just won’t hold a curl. Many people are otherwise happy with their extensions but struggle to maintain the curls they want. I can relate—my own natural hair has been professionally curled at a salon, only to straighten out completely within 24 hours. My hair isn’t low quality; it’s just coarse and doesn’t naturally like staying in a curled shape.

With the right techniques, you can make curls last longer. For example, keeping the hair slightly dirty before curling, using proper tools, and maintaining good hair care can significantly extend the life of your curls. Alternatively, instead of buying straight hair, consider hair that’s been steam-styled into a wavy texture. The extra bit of steam styling it has undergone might give the hair more grip, helping it hold curls better.

If you want hair that holds a curl more easily, consider buying processed hair. Because processed hair is slightly damaged by acid treatments, it becomes less stubborn and more willing to hold a curl. While processed hair isn’t as strong or long-lasting as unprocessed hair, it might be the solution for those who want curls that stay in place.

Preventing Shedding

Shedding can often be linked to low hair quality. Natural hair has a certain elasticity—if you hold a strand tightly between your hands and pull, it should stretch slightly. When hair is processed, it loses this elasticity, making it more prone to breakage. This kind of shedding is typically a quality-related issue.

However, shedding isn’t always about quality. Sometimes, improper hair care is part of the problem. Hair, especially curly textures, can tangle and stick together, requiring extra care. Unfortunately, many people try to resolve this by aggressively brushing, which only damages the hair further.

If you have clients complaining about shedding, make sure to educate them on proper hair care techniques. A gentle approach to detangling and brushing can go a long way in resolving most shedding issues. By helping clients understand how to care for their extensions, you’ll address many of these concerns before they become complaints.

Avoiding Tangles

Tangles can be frustrating, but understanding their causes can help prevent them.

The worst tangles occur when the cuticles aren’t aligned. You’ll notice this when you wash your hair—if it turns into a chaotic mess, it’s almost certainly a cuticle issue. You can detangle it, but as soon as you wash it again, the problem will return.

If the hair starts sticking together during regular wear, resembling tangling, it’s often a sign of insufficient hair care. Proper maintenance usually resolves this.

Another cause is damaged hair, which becomes porous and struggles to retain moisture. Dry hair tangles more easily, but regular moisturizing can make a big difference.

Tangles in the nape of the neck are a nape of the neck problem. If you take an extension that’s tangling there and move it to your sides, the problem will completely disappear. This shows it’s an issue with that specific area, mostly caused by high friction, especially from pillows, (winter) clothes, and necklaces.

To Conclude

When it comes to hair extensions, knowing how to care for them can make all the difference. The sad truth? A lot of great products get unfairly trashed because people don’t really understand how to treat high-quality hair. You see it all the time in Facebook groups—someone’s bashing a vendor when, really, the issue might’ve been on their end.

Take one of our clients, for example. She complained her hair was tangling, so we had a video chat to figure out why. Turns out, she hadn’t washed it in over a month and wanted hair that didn’t need washing. Yep, you read that right. While chemically processed hair might let you get away with that, high-end hair with intact cuticles? It’s not magic—it needs some basic care to stay in great shape. Honestly, just a wash and some conditioner would’ve fixed everything.

Here’s the thing: most problems like tangling, dryness, or shedding are easy to avoid if you know what you’re doing. A little effort goes a long way. So, if you’re investing in top-quality hair, make sure that you’re aware of what you’re getting, and treat it like it deserves. Trust me, the results are worth it!

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Even if you already have a vendor and are simply trying to educate yourself or your friends, ordering our free sample or one of our orange line bundles could be a great idea. You know what you’re getting with our hair, so that it would be a great reference tool. Our 613 hair is very healthy compared to most other suppliers, and you will recognize the quality once you see it.

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Have questions? Contact us directly on WhatsApp or iMessage at +86 135 3369 3283, or email me at cristina@bossique.com. Many of our articles originate from discussions on our Facebook page. We’d love to hear from you!