In the world of hair extensions, the term “double drawn” is frequently thrown around, but often misunderstood. As more and more people are interested in sourcing hair extensions, it’s important to clear up some common misconceptions about what double-drawn hair really means and how it varies.
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Understanding Double Drawn Hair
Many people think that double-drawn refers to the process of removing short hairs twice so that the majority of the short hairs are removed, leaving mostly longer lengths. However, this isn’t exactly the case; it’s really about the fullness ratio of the hair.
The Fullness Ratio explained
Hair extensions aren’t literally “drawn.” They are made by mixing short, medium, and long lengths of hair. The fullness of these extensions is often expressed as a percentage. This percentage shows how much of the hair reaches the full advertised length. For example, with 30% fullness in 22” extensions, only 30% of the hairs will actually be 22 inches long, or more precisely, between 20.5 and 22.5 inches.
But it’s not just about the percentage that reaches full length. It’s also important to consider the distribution of the lengths below the maximum. For example, if you have 26″ extensions, and the shortest hair in the bundle measures 6″, the overall look will be significantly different from if the shortest hair measures 12″.
Why The Fullness Ratio is Controlled
Each manufacturer has their own recipe for the short-to-long hair ratio, and this is often decided by several factors:
- Consistency: You can’t sell hair for $100, with one bundle being 90g, the next 110g, and each with a different fullness ratio. It needs to be kept consistent.
- Scarcity of Materials: High-quality, long length hair is scarce and is more expensive. There simply aren’t as many girls with very long hair willing to sell it.
- Costs: While there’s a shortage of long hair, there’s an abundance of shorter hair. Using more short hair can help lower the cost of the extensions.
Manufacturers take these factors into account to develop their own hair ratios that are practical for them and meet their clients’ needs. Sometimes more with their own needs in mind, and sometimes with a higher focus on what the client wants.
What Do People Typically Order?
Most major retail brands sourcing from China, such as Bellami, JZ Styles, Muse Hair Pro, Luxy Hair, Glam Seamless, and Hairdreams, mostly choose for fullness ratios between 30-45%. It’s enough for most customers.
And higher fullness isn’t always better. An 80% fullness ratio is like getting a bowl-cut, where natural hair usually thins out towards the ends. Additionally, the ends of hair extensions are often the least healthy part of the extensions. Having more of these ends can lead to more issues.
Stocking hair is extremely costly, so these brands often only stock one fullness ratio and simply label it as double-drawn. This is why you might notice variations in how full the ends look between different brands.
What Fullness Ratio Do You Need?
There isn’t a one-size-fits-all answer. For example, a 30% fullness ratio will look very full at 10 inches but much less full at 40 inches.
Typically, a 30-35% fullness is sufficient if most of your orders are for 18-20″ lengths. However, for lengths around 24-26″, a 40-45% fullness might be more ideal.
Preferences also play a significant role. We’ve seen that Canadian clients often prefer ratios beyond 45%, U.S. clients prefer 35-40%, UK clients are mixed, and Australian clients tend toward 30-35%. But that’s still for our clients, and your clients might be different.
If you’re unsure, start with a lower fullness in your sample. If the hair isn’t to your liking, you don’t lose as much. But if you like the quality and want more fullness, you can increase it in your next order.
Specific Considerations for Different Demographics
— Mainly for White Women Extensions:
The majority of white women install hair in addition to their own hair for optimal length and volume. So at max, you might install 200g, but a more common amount is 100-150g. And when you buy hair wholesale, you’re paying $150-250 for the best quality available, depending on length, fullness, and hair extension method. And the difference between 30 and 45% isn’t that big.
White women typically add extensions to their own hair to enhance length and volume, usually installing about 100-150g. When buying wholesale, even the highest quality hair can cost between $150-250 per 100g, depending on length, fullness, and the method of hair extension. The difference between 30% and 45% fullness isn’t very large (maybe 20%).
— Mainly for Black Women Extensions:
Black women often add extensions to their natural hair, usually needing more than 300g for a full look. The constant desire for longer and fuller hair has pushed prices up. To avoid raising prices, some manufacturers cut corners.
This trend has led many in this part of the industry to focus on single-drawn hair, which usually has only 10-15% of the strands at the full advertised length. We aim for a fuller look with about 15-20% fullness, but still, our extensions still include quite a few shorter strands starting from 4-6 inches.
Also, terms like “double drawn” and “super double drawn” used by other suppliers do not have a fixed meaning and typically just mean fuller than single-drawn.
Conclusion
Understanding the concept of double-drawn hair extensions is crucial for making informed purchasing decisions. The term refers not to the process of removing short hairs, but to achieving a specified fullness ratio, which is essential for determining the overall quality and appearance of the extensions.
Manufacturers adjust this ratio based on factors like hair availability and cost, affecting how the hair integrates and performs. Recognizing these nuances helps consumers and professionals alike choose extensions that best meet their needs and expectations.
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Frequently Asked Questions
What Does ‘Double Drawn’ Mean in Hair Extensions?
‘Double drawn’ in hair extensions indicates increased fullness. The actual fullness is determined by the ratio of short to long hair, which involves a mix of short, medium, and long lengths. The key factors defining this fullness are the percentage of hair that reaches the full advertised length and the length of the shortest hairs included in the mix.
What Fullness Ratio Do Most People Choose for Hair Extensions?
Most major Caucasian retail brands and their customers typically choose hair extensions with a fullness ratio between 30-45%. This range is favored because it offers a natural look while also being cost-effective, meeting the preferences of most users. In contrast, in the market primarily serving Black women, the common fullness ratio tends to be lower, around 10-15%, reflecting different styling needs and market dynamics.
How Does the Fullness Ratio Impact the Cost of Hair Extensions?
The fullness ratio impacts the cost of hair extensions because higher ratios typically require more long-length hairs, which are rarer and more expensive. Manufacturers need to balance the demand for fuller hair with the availability and cost of long hairs, often influencing the final price of the product.
Are Higher Fullness Ratios Better for Hair Extensions?
Higher fullness ratios in hair extensions are not always better; they depend on personal preference and the intended use. While they offer a fuller look, they may not always appear natural, especially towards the ends, and could lead to increased maintenance issues due to the concentration of longer hairs.